hawaii

we went on a vacation! we left home when it was 20 below and arrived in the magical land of hawaii, where it was 100 degrees warmer. it was sunny the whole time, as if mother nature had just set the weather on auto pilot and fell asleep. it was perfect hiking weather, perfect papaya-for-breakfast weather (squeezed with calamansi!), perfect sitting-by-the-water-turning-off-my-phone-reading-a-book-and-not-looking-up-until-a-man-rode-by-with-a-mai-tai-delivery-bike weather. we listened to the la la land soundtrack, ate donuts before supper, and sat on the beach with moses and alana with buckets o’ poke from the little kahuku superette.

it was exactly hawaii.

i acquired a new favorite hobby, floating. i learned the joy of lying in the water and looking up at the sky with no thoughts and fears aside from the possibility of my bum getting nibbled by fishies. and eggboy discovered the wonders of shave ice and haleakala. we watched the sunrise each morning with coffee and the newspaper and observed a nightly bedtime of like 8pm. we made a chinchilla friend in moses's mom's garden. i miss the spam musubi and the pineapple. i came home with a musubi mold though so watch out, i’m going to musubi everything. 

on the road to hana, instead of stopping to turn around where the road “ended” we just kept on going, and let our jaws drop at maui showing off. our phones didn’t work on that road, and the lighting was different, i felt like we were on another planet or in another time. the world could have gone all brigadoon on us and, nope, we wouldn’t have known.

it was such a wonderful trip. i'm officially one of the tannest humans in grand forks and i'm ready to get back to work but also counting the days until we get to go back to hawaii :)


here were some of the places we loved most on this trip (to add to the list of places i loved on my last trip to maui and oahu):

koko head cafe // an adorable brunch spot with dumplings, bibimbap, congee, and a french toast that we didn’t get but it looked so epic that i’m regretting that we didn’t get it.

diamond head market // the site of eggboy’s first spam musubi! and, ugh, their scones are sofa-king good.

rainbow drive-in // nothing prepared me for how good their plate lunch would be. we got the mixed plate. i couldn’t stop eating it. even though i’d just had a malasada. even though i knew it’d probably give me a belly ache. so good. 

surfjack hotel // a super cute hotel in waikiki where we stayed for the first few nights! it is really hip but not painfully hip. just right. especially for an afternoon of playing jenga with alana and moses by the pool.

royal kitchen // jade brought us some of their manapua. sooo soft and doughy and good.

four seasons at ko’olina // a dream. we screamed when we walked into our room and saw the view. the beds were clouds, the service was flawless, the pools and laguna made me love going in the water. and all of the food was delicious, especially the pandan mochi donuts at la hiki. and there were poolside cake pops! i want to go here again and again and again. a huge mahalo to kim for making our stay there extra special!!! 

kahumana farm // an organic farm that employs homeless families and people with disabilities and supplies produce and eggies to a bunch of restaurants on oahu. so many things grew there that i’d never even heard of, and they had an awesome aquaponics setup. 

haleakala national park // eggboy and i did a lazy thing: instead of waking up at 3am to join the crowds for the sunrise, we slept in, drove up to the summit in the morning sun (what a pretty drive!), and then hiked the day away on the sliding sands trail. it was quiet and stunning and lovely and we weren’t exhausted like we’d have been if we woke up for the sunrise, so 10/10 would recommend this. on the way back down we stopped in the cute town of makawao for a smoothie. note to self: next time go on a day when komoda's bakery is open! 

paia flatbread company // we went here for pizza night and looooved the pesto pizza. the place reminded me of our town pizza parlor. quirky and fun! 

old lahaina luau // our first luau! we loved it. 

hana ranch burger truck // tasty burgers on the hana highway!

the road to hana // would definitely recommend. and i have some tips: the rental car company tried to get us to upgrade to a four-wheel drive for it but eggboy rolled his eyes and was like really? which made me a little nervous but it ended up being 100% fine in our two-wheel drive. eggboy's a good slow driver though, so it was a smooth ride, free of car sickness, and yeah, some of my favorite parts were after the highway ends. past that, it's gravel-y and narrow at times, but it's not too bad. they tell you to really load up on snacks and gas in paia before hitting the road, so we pretty much cleared out the mana market as if we were gearing up for the apocalypse. but in reality, we went through about 1/3 of a tank of gas and there were taco trucks, farm stands, and barbecue stops the entire way to hana lol. i'm not mad because you know how i feel about cute road snacks, but just so you know for future planning, you're not gonna die if you don't fill your backseat with bread before you leave. 


-yeh!

lemon poppyseed olive oil muffins

In my experience, muffins have the ability to be really really bad or really really good. The ratio of bad to good muffins in this world is something depressing, like 2:1, and their lack of nutritional value doesn’t ever work in their favor too. Like, if you’re going to eat that much junk for breakfast, why not go all the way, add a little more sugar and have a slice of cake, you know? I mostly avoid the risk of eating muffins except for when it comes to two equal and opposite specimens: the mini lemon poppyseed kind that come in clear plastic packages in the bakery section of the grocery store that I would devour by the dozen as a wee one, and the large triumphant muffins from Blue Sky Bakery in Park Slope which will be the last remaining muffins on earth once everyone realizes that most muffins blow hard. Both of these muffins transcend the universal muffin problem of what to do with the muffin bottom once you’ve ripped off, buttered, and eaten the lesser evil muffin top, for the grocery store lemon poppyseed muffin’s homogenous squishy texture from the outside in makes the top no different from the bottom, and Blue Sky’s oft filled muffin bottoms read like moist sour cream coffee cakes. 

And here’s a third muffin option that combines my lifelong love for lemon poppyseed with my tendency to root for the underdog: it’s a topless muffin. A stubby breakfast cake that’s moistened with olive oil, beefed up with almond meal, and is as good as a muffin top. It works because parchment muffin liners are nary seen in this recipe, therefore allowing the outer edges of the muffin to get caramelized and crusty, just like a top would be. So it’s kind of like this whole thing is a muffin top with a shape that’s easier to grab onto. And are they kind of just an unfrosted mini cake in disguise as a more socially accepted breakfast food? Yeah, that’s pretty much exactly what they are.

Jumbo muffin tins (7.1 ounce capacity) make these muffins the perfect size. (I don’t recommend making them in standard cupcake tins, as the small size doesn’t allow for the full effect. In a pinch, using a 9” cake pan will work, but plan for more baking time.) These muffins are just as good the next day so add these to your list of brunch things that can be made ahead of time. Serve them with a light dusting of powdered sugar, and perhaps some yogurt and berries for a sweet simple breakfast.


lemon poppyseed olive oil muffins

makes 12 jumbo muffins

ingredients

1 1/2 c sugar

2 c flour

3/4 c almond meal

1 1/2 tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp baking soda

1 tsp baking powder

4 tsp poppy seeds

4 tsp lemon zest

3 eggs

1 1/2 c olive oil

1/4 c lemon juice

3/4 c whole milk

1 tsp almond extract

Powdered sugar, for serving

clues

preheat the oven to 350ºF. coat 12 jumbo nonstick muffin tins with cooking spray and set aside.

in a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, almond meal, salt, baking soda, baking powder, poppy seeds, and lemon zest. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, olive oil, lemon juice, milk, and almond extract. add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir to combine. distribute the batter evenly amongst the muffin tins and bake until the edges are deep golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. begin checking for doneness at 28 minutes. 

cool in the pan on a rack for 15 minutes. run a small offset spatula around the edges and remove to the rack. serve warm or cool completely and then serve. dust with powdered sugar before serving.


-yeh!

za'atar mini babkas

whenever i leave new york or tel aviv and i'm not running late for my flight, which i'm proud to say is more than half the time, i build time into my route to the airport to stop at breads bakery for a rugelach or three and a za'atar twist and cheese straw. and maybe a babka and marzipan cookie and if they're in season a sufganiyah or designer danish. and a chopped salad for balance. on the airplane i build a perimeter of crumbs around myself like a solar system of puff pastry stars which i always hope is strong enough to subdue armrest hogs so i won't have to pull out my sad excuse for stink eye. and then when i get home i have a bunch of za'atar souvenirs embedded into my clothes and it is great.

this is one of my favorite travel rituals and breads has become one of my very favorite bakeries in the world. everything there is so finely tuned and perfect, not in a flashy trendy way, just in a good quality something-you'd-want-to-be-lifelong-friends-with way. i love having my breakfast salad there and listening to the hebrew spoken all around me, and for the better part of 2015 most of my small amount of time spent in new york revolved around hunting down their shakshuka focaccia. i kept seeing it on their social media but finding it in person was like seeking out a unicorn! i'd rush over as soon as i had a free moment, run to the back, and examine the rows of sandwiches, usually to be disappointed. well, disappointed is a strong word when your consolation prize is a cheese straw and hummus. but i kept arriving too late for the lunch rush and missed out on that tomatoey eggy focaccia until finally i timed it just right and achieved focaccia gold and foamed at the mouth about it. donny witnessed it, i think i embarrassed him.

on another trip, to tel aviv, i met tahini hero adeena there and she introduced me to uri, the owner, and it was the best day ever. uri gave me a tour of the inner workings, through rooms filled entirely with challah dough and trays of rugelach. the walls were white and the lights were bright and i was convinced i was dead and this was the highest level of heaven.

uri is the nicest person. he is a pastry and bread genius, and every time he instagrams a photo of a new recipe he's working on i get all of the fomo and wish that amazon prime would just get their act together to deliver same day cross-country pastries.

but!

now there is the breads book and all of his secrets are in there. ugh, it's so good, when i received it i wanted to fake my own death during my book tour so i could stay home and bake everything in it. instead i powered through until my chrismukkah break, when i finally got to tear it open.

i started with the challah.

i'm worried. i texted alana. the dough is so insanely dense, i think i added too much flour but i even weighed the ingredients so how could it be wrong? my arms hurt from kneading it. i am scared. what if it's dry?

in the challah section, there were new-to-me kneading techniques, different dry-to-wet ratios than i'm used to, and the dough just felt different. i feared for my challah and my very ability to understand directions. but i kept going on, following uri and co-author raquel's directions to a t.

and then!

it was the best challah ever and i swore off my own challah recipe. byeeeee.

it was fluffy like a cloud, light, moist but not wet. perfect for new year's eve day savory french toast and ski trip salami sandwiches.

that was my cue to trust every single recipe in this book, no matter how new or complicated the steps were.

the sufganiyot were next level, dense, and wildly flavorful. they didn't event need jam. and laminated dough was... ok let's get into this...

i took a little class at breads once! during tent. we made bunny rolls and babka and afterwards my friend talia and i delivered babka to food52, it was really jolly. during the class as the teachers were spreading gallons of nutella over 6 foot long stretches of dough, i kept getting distracted by the bakers behind them, going about their workday, rolling slabs of dough and butter through a dough roller in the corner. it looked kind of like a huge pasta machine. every fold came out so evenly and smooth, it was so satisfying to watch and it looked so easy. so last week, as i muscled through my first solo dough laminating expedition, i kept thinking about that dough roller and wondered if eggboy would build me one. laminating dough is quite the arm workout!!! you fold and then roll and then fold and roll again. the butter can't be too soft or it will ooze out the sides and the dough can't be too warm or it will fight you when you roll it. but just like shakshuka focaccia hunting and almost running late for a flight in the name of rugelach, it is worth it.

worth it if the kitchen is your favorite room in the house and worth it if you like a buttery challenge. and excellent pastries.

this za'atar variation is just one recipe in an entire babka chapter of breaking breads that mainly features sweet fillings, like nutella and halva. they all use the same dough, of which there is a basic option (a buttery enriched dough) and an advanced option (laminated dough). because the za'atar twists at breads use a laminated dough and because i sleep on a bed of butter, i went that route. you'll find both options below. i baked half of these in a mini loaf tin, rather than the freeform shape that the recipe advises because i knew that my clumsy hands would kind of screw them up and they did! but of course they still tasted great and i froze some of them which i plan to put into a ribollita at some point.

from start to finish, this process takes about two days. it is long. it wins the award for the longest recipe on my name is yeh. but all of these directions are necessary and clear and if you follow them correctly you'll be rewarded with flaky little loaves of herby savory glory.

good luck!


za'atar mini babkas

from breaking breads by uri scheft and raquel pezel

makes 14 mini babkas

ingredients

for the basic dough:

120g (1/2 c) whole milk

20g (2 1/2 tb) fresh yeast or 6g (2 tsp) active dry yeast

280g (2 1/4 c) alll-purpose flour + extra for dusting and kneading, sifted

220g (2 c + 2 tb) pastry or cake flour, sifted

2 large eggs

75g (1/3 c) granulated sugar

large pinch fine salt

80g (5 tb + 1 tsp) unsalted butter (at room temperature)

all-purpose flour for rolling and shaping

for the advanced dough:

200g (1 stick + 5 tb) unsalted butter (at cool room temperature)

for the za'atar filling:

30g (3 tb) sesame seeds

400g (1 1/3 c) labne

1 red jalapeno or fresno chile, finely chopped (seeded for less heat)

20g (1 tb + 1 tsp) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for finishing

 110g (1 c) feta cheese, crumbled

60g (1/2 c) pine nuts

50g (1 c) fresh oregano leaves

25g (2 1/2 tb) za'atar, plus extra for finishing

for the egg wash:

1 large egg

1 tb water

pinch fine salt

clues

make the basic dough:

add the milk to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. use a fork or your fingers to lightly mix the yeast into the milk. then, in this order, add the flours, eggs, sugar, salt, and finally the butter in small pinches.

mix on the lowest speed, stopping the mixer to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl as needed, and to pull the dough off the hook as it accumulates there and break it apart so it mixes evenly, until the dough is well combined, about 2 minutes (it will not be smooth).

if the dough is very dry, add more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time; if the dough looks wet, add more all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough comes together. increase the mixer speed to medium, and mix until the dough is smooth and has good elasticity, 4 minutes.

stretch and fold the dough:

lightly dust your work surface with flour and turn the dough out on top; lightly dust the top of the dough and the interior of a large bowl with flour. grab the top portion of the dough and stretch it away from you, tearing up the dough. then fold it on top of the middle of the dough, give the dough a quarter turn and repeat the stretch, tear, and fold. continue to do this until you can stretch a small piece of dough very thin without it tearing, about 5 minutes. then use your hands to push and pull the dough against the word surface and in a circular motion to create a nice round of dough. set the ball in the floured bowl, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and set it aside at room temperature for 30 minutes.

chill the dough:

set the dough on a piece of plastic wrap and press it into a 1-inch-thick rectangle. wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for 24 hours. 

[at this point you've completed the "basic babka dough." if you'd like to skip to the sesame seed toasting and filling steps, that is ok! but if you're in this for the long haul and want to make the "advanced babka dough," go onto the next step.]

prepare the butter:

set the 200g butter on a large piece of parchment paper. use a rolling pin (or your fist) to smack and whack it into a 7-by-8-inch rectangle that is between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch thick. use a bench knife to square off the corners and then pound as needed to fit the measurements. set the butter aside.

add the butter and make the first fold:

place the dough on a lightly floured work surface, lightly dust the top, de-gas the dough by pressing down on it, and then roll the dough into a 7-by-16-inch rectangle with a short side facing you. place the butter on the bottom half of the dough, leaving a 1/4-inch border at the bottom. fold the top of the dough over the butter to meet the bottom edge, pull the corners so they align perfectly, and use a pastry brush to brush away any excess flour from the surface.

fold and chill the dough:

rotate the dough so the seam side (which was facing the bottom) is now facing to the right. lightly flour the top and underside of the dough, and roll it into a 9-by-16-inch rectangle. use a bench knife or a chef's knife to square off the edges (save the scraps to add to the dough). then use your finger to mark the dough into equal thirds. use a pastry brush to remove any excess flour from the dough. fold the bottom up to the top mark and the top down and over to the bottom edge to create a simple fold. try to keep the edges and corners as perfectly aligned as possible. lightly dust the dough and the work surface again, and roll the dough just enough to flatten it slightly. at this point, the dough will probably bounce back when you roll it because you have been working the gluten a lot. now is a good time to wrap it in plastic and let it rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, then repeat  the simple fold two more times, refrigerating the dough between each time. wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 5 hours or overnight.

toast the sesame seeds: 

place the sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium-high heat and toast them, shaking the pan often, until they are golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. transfer the seeds to a small plate and set aside.

roll the cold babka dough:

unwrap the cold babka dough and set it on a lightly floured work surface. roll the dough into a 12-by-28-inch rectangle (it should be just a little shy or 1/4 inch thick) with a long side facing you. pull and shape the corners into a rectangle.

fill and roll the dough:

spread the labne over the dough in a thin, even layer. sprinkle it with the jalapeno, olive oil, feta, toasted sesame seeds, pine nuts, oregano, and za'atar. divide the dough in half horizontally so you now have two 6-by-28-inch pieces. working from the long bottom edge of one of the pieces, roll the dough up into a tight cylinder, pushing back on the cylinder with each roll to make it even tighter. lift the cylinder, holding one end in each hand, and gently stretch and pull to tighten it even more (it will stretch to about 35 inches long). repeat with the second piece of dough.

divide the dough into strips and make the mini babkas:

use a bread knife to slice each cylinder in half lengthwise so you have 4 long pieces, and then slice those pieces crosswise into 7 equal sections (about 5 inches each) to make a total of 28 strips. cross 2 equal-size pieces to create an X, keeping the exposed filling facing up. twist the ends together like threads on a screw so you have at least 1 twist on each side of the X (3 twists total). repeat with the remaining pieces. set twists in a lightly greased mini loaf pan.

let the mini babkas proof:

cover the pans with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm, draft-free spot until the babkas have doubled in volume and are very soft and jiggly to the touch, 2 to 3 hours depending on how warm your room is.

preheat the oven to 350ºf.

bake:

make the egg wash by whisking the egg, water, and salt together in a small bowl. brush egg wash over each mini babka, and bake until they are dark brown and baked through, about 20 minutes; check after 15 minutes, and if they are getting too dark, tent them loosely with a piece of parchment paper. remove from the oven and, while they are still warm, brush with more olive oil and sprinkle with a little za'atar. serve warm or at room temperature.


this giveaway is now closed - January 23, 2017

want a copy of breaking breads? leave a comment here with the most challenging thing you've ever baked and i'll pick a winner at random next week. open to u.s. residents.

-yeh!

tahini puppy chow

hello from hawaii where we are celebrating eggboy’s 30th birthday!! we came here right after a quick couple of days spent in new york for the today show and the launch of my taim falafel and it was so much fun! i got to make tater tot hotdish on air with al roker and harry connick junior, and they and everyone else at the show were so gosh darn sweet! i was so nervous but made sure to eat a good breakfast at ess-a-bagel before and then i managed to squeeze in a mention of our town tater tot factory during the segment. new york actually felt balmy when we got there since it was -20 when we left grand forks. it was perfect walking weather, so i was able to easily avoid the subway and log a zillion steps per day. 

anywho, about a month ago my bb kristin texted me a very important text message:

tahini puppy chow?????

yassssss!!!!!! ever since chanie posted a recipe for it i've been eyeing it up and down.

the last time i’d had puppy chow was probably also the last time i wore limited too and was obsessed with lime green and those little rhinestone accessories that stuck onto your hair by way of velcro. (do you remember those? what were we thinking?) puppy chow was the best soccer game half-time snack, tied with firmly packed rice krispies treats. and it is best eaten by shoveling it into your mouth, creating a powder sugar mustache that, now that i have grown out of my limited too phase, begs for a cocaine joke.

when kristin arrived at our house for our annual chrismukkah slumber party, she brought:

chex

powdered sugar

my favorite m&m knockoffs which i think you can only get in the whole foods bulk section (the colors are the prettiest)

tahini for the puppy chow

more tahini for my personal use because my stash got dangerously low and good tahini does not exist in grand forks

and then we went to town and made what seemed like way too much puppy chow at the time but after a couple days of steady noshing it was gone and we got really sad. it’s ok though because the recipe is right here! we improvised on kristin’s classic peanut butter recipe, essentially just swapping out the peanut butter for tahini, adding a bit of cinnamon to enhance the flavor and finishing it with toasted sesame seeds, those pretty m&m knockoffs, and some chopped halva that i've had in my freezer from when ruth gifted me halva kingdom halva in tel aviv! it is perrrrfect to have around in a cute container for when you need just a little bite of something sweet.


tahini puppy chow

makes about 8 cups

ingredients

1/4 c butter

1/2 c tahini

a couple pinches of cinnamon

a big pinch of salt

1 1/2 tsp vanilla

1 c chocolate chips

6 c chex cereal

1 1/2 c powdered sugar

2 tb sesame seeds

1 c chopped halva

a few handfuls of m&ms

clues

in a small saucepan over medium low heat, melt butter. stir in the tahini, cinnamon, salt, and vanilla. add the chocolate chips and stir until the chocolate is fully melted. remove from the heat.

in a large plastic bin or bowl with a lid, combine the chex and tahini mixture, stirring gently to keep the chex from breaking. stir in half of the powdered sugar and then add the rest of the powdered sugar and the sesame seeds, snap on the lid and shake, shake, shake! taste and add more powdered sugar as desired.

finally, fold in the chopped halva and m&ms and enjoy!