new york

bloop! greetings from los angeles, not new york. i know that's weird since all of these photos are from new york, but that's what i'm working with these days: a lot less internet, a vomiting to-do list, and operas every day. so all good things! (save for the to-do list.) all tasty things, all fun things, all things that include really awesome humans.

most of these shots are from a breakfast sandwich crawl that was strategically placed after the saveur awards so that a lot of the bloggers who were in town for that could come. it's true that we didn't stick to breakfast sandwiches and that we also made room for pie and poutine, but how do you not do that when a crawl takes you past 4 & 20 and mile end

meh!

eggboy has just arrived in los angeles, so i am going to take him to meet eggslut on this fine foggy morning. 

happy monday, everyone!

-yeh!

for a list of all of the places where we went on the breakfast sandwich crawl, check out donny's post!

new york

how fired am i if i never want to see another tater tot for as long i live?

will my casserole dishes disappear? will i have to return my duluth pack? will the midwest barf me up in the same way that i want to barf up all the tater tots that i ate yesterday???

(i'm sorry, eggboy!! i'm sorry, eggfamily!!)

like if there is one downside to overhauling your wardrobe and replacing all of the college-era fitted clothes with grownup loose-fitting flowy garments that say i'm a married lady with a 9pm bedtime, it's that you *cannot* properly gauge your tater tot intake during an official sunday morning tater tot hot dog crawl around williamsburg. a crawl that was bookended by fried pickles and cheese curds. 

and now i find myself researching barbecue places for my next stop: texas. oy vezmir! where is my green juice.

this is all to say that aside from yesterday's tater tot-induced belly ache, this past week in new york was many types of marvelous. much of it was spent in rehearsal for dog daysand the rest of it was spent eating, drinking, hugging, making a wedding cake, telling my friend jeremy how good he is at the maracas (omg he is so good, go see him play), and basking in the sweet sweet sounds of mahler and george crumb. i saw friends i hadn't seen in ten years, ate hummus nearly every day, and at one point i dumped out an entire jar of sprinkles in the new food52 office. dreams do come true.

now i am leaving new york now with a full heart, a bingo win, and a baggie of salty swedish licorice, which i need you to get next time you're in a sweden. (thanks, hannah!)


here's where i went (and loved) during this trip:

hummus place // i have to go here every time i'm in new york. in my dream kitchen, there is a tap with an endless flow of hummus place hummus.

brooklyn larder // this is the other place i have to go to every time i'm in new york. their vegetables, romesco, muhammura, pistachio cake, and panade are just about everything. i'd eat so many more vegetables if i lived closer to here.  

breads bakery // this is quickly becoming another place i have to go to every time i'm in new york. one day i'll get there early enough to snag a shakshuka focaccia before they sell out, but until then their marzipan rugelach and cheese twists will have my heart. 

miriam // another great hummus place, and their zucchini cakes are little cheesy nuggets of perfection. 

cafe mogador // more hummus! and tasty labne and bread and cauliflower and everything else. and one day i must go for brunch.  

maison kayser // rob introduced me to their financiers and they are so good, even with the embarrassment of not really knowing how to pronounce "financier."

don antonio // marian and i split a pizza with walnut cream, zucchini, and smoked mozzarella and i ate it like the end of the world was near. 

greene grape // i'm mad at myself for not going here more when i lived so close to it. i'm also sort of mad at myself for not getting a jeni's ice cream sandwich and a bottle of this really good looking kentucky soy sauce when i went there.

kent ale house // stop #1 on tater tot crawl. great chili cheese tots, really great fried pickles.

crif dogs // stop #2 on tater tot crawl. i am forever a spicy redneck type of gal, and their tots were extra crispy and salty.

grand national // stop #3 on tater tot crawl. good tots. a good pineapple-y hot dog. jell-o shots. sunday afternoon bingo.

burnside // stop #4 on tater tot crawl. we all ditched the tots for their unbelievably amazing fried cheese curds. like, they were so good, they would even rival the ones at the fargo street fair.

dough // mmmm salty chocolate fluffy donuts. *blushing face smiley emoji*


ok, see you in texas!!!!

-yeh!

lefse!

the other day, i was at the town boutique trying on a funfetti sweater when britney spears started singing from my phone and, mostly as a reaction to my embarrassment and wanting that ringtone to stop (eggboy, please change my ringtone, ok thanks!!!), i picked it up immediately. on the other end was his jolliness sam sifton, who said something to effect of, hey! i was thinking i'd come over to make some lefse! and i thought holy poopcakes!

what followed was one of the most memorable weeks of my life, but only after i could annoy poor miss ethel a few times because contrary to what you'd think based on her perfect performance on camera, she had been adamant about not even being in the presence of a reporter. and i was a pushy patty.

(it all worked out in the end because that sam can really charm.)

for a few days, we covered ourselves in flour and rolled in potato fields and it was all so unreal because when i lived in new york, i'd sit at my little desk and count the seconds until sam's restaurant reviews would come online, and then i'd savor every last word. i may have moved on to marilyn's turf, but sam will always be one of my favorites :) 

i loved having him and the amazing sweet video crew from the times here, they were my first visitors from brooklyn! after our shoot, we celebrated with venison and hotdish, and then eggboy and eggdad took the crew on a workshop tour. they got a little welding lesson and at some point i think sam drove a tractor, which was practice for when we hire him for beet harvest. hehe.

anywho, i've received the sweetest messages from so many of you guys about the video and i want to hug all of you!! if you haven't seen it, here it is! the recipe for ethel's lefse is here. happy lefse season, everyone!!

-yeh!

some of these photos were taken by one of the wonderful crew members, eric moran. check out his site, his photos are amazing!!!!!

 

italian rainbow cookie cake

my older sister, stoopie, is celebrating her last birthday of her 20s today! oy! it feels like only yesterday that i was underage and romping around with her id, drinking screwdrivers and skim milk white russians as "22-year-old stoopie." we've been celebrating these past few days in chicago with our family, lots of food, and our signature impressions of al dente noodles. she's been asking me every few minutes if i got her this flask bangle as a gift, and i'm starting to think that she's actually serious about wanting one, but too late, i already got her cute earrings. 

speaking of booze though, this year was such a big stoopie year because a few months ago, she passed her first sommelier test!!!! i'm so excited for her to take the next test soon so she can officially be called a sommelier, and so her name and title can kind of rhyme. (phonetically, she will be so-molly-yay-jenna-yay.) one day i'm gonna bribe her to move to grand forks so that she can be the sommelier for my cake house, and we'll host 30-course wine and cake tasting menus.  

speaking of cake, i made her a birthday cake! an almond cake because i have all of these vivid memories of us making almond cakes when we were little. she would always have first dibs on the can of almond paste and if i was lucky, she'd give me a little nubbin of it. our family loves almondy things. we have our valentine's day italian almond cake tradition, but oddly, we never had italian almond cookies growing up.

i didn't even discover these cookies until i moved to new york, and even then, for the longest time, i had no interest in them. i didn't know that they were almond flavored, as i'd only heard them referred to as "rainbow cookies." i'd see them when i went to buy black and white cookies at zabar's or fairway, but i questioned why anyone would buy these artificially colored random looking things when they could buy a black and white cookie. i was skeptical, but the seed was planted in my brain when i saw my little new yorky cousins gobbling them up during rosh hashanah, and then finally, when i was served a fancy freshly made one at torrisi, i was convinced. i discovered that these little guys aren't cookies, they're dense, rich almond cakes, glued together with jam, and cut into perfect little bites. it was the punch of almond that got me, these things are loaded with almond paste.

i became so obsessed that stoop and mum made a batch in (what they thought were) juilliard colors for my senior recital. some time after that, i fished out miniature versions of them from the bottom of a sundae at kutsher's with devra and my cousin eitan, before we even discovered that we're cousins. that year around the holidays, i made a shitton using torrisi's recipe and fed them to the earliest version of san fermin, which was huge and had some lucius.

full disclosure: a younger, less experienced and more stressed out version of myself wrote this about my first time making them. i've since chilled out, but there is some truth in my earlier frustrations: making these cookies/this cake is a process. it takes an entire day if you're fast, two days if you cruise, and maybe even three if you feel like blanching your own almonds and/or making your own almond paste. it's a cake for your holiday break, or one to call in sick for. but, trust, it's worth it.


italian rainbow cookie cake

makes one 8-inch cake

ingredients

6 eggs, separated

1 1/4 c + 2 tb sugar

1 1/3 c almond paste, chopped

2 c unsalted butter, softened

1 tb lemon juice

1 tsp almond extract

1 tsp kosher salt

2 2/3 c all-purpose flour

1 tsp red food coloring

1 tsp green food coloring

1/2 c + 2 tb apricot jam (or 6 tb apricot jam and 4 tb raspberry jam or vice versa)

12 oz dark or semisweet chocolate chips

1 c heavy cream

cocoa powder for dusting, optional

dinosaurs, optional

 

clues

preheat oven to 350. grease and line as many 8-inch cake pans as you have. you'll need to make six layers total. (i have three cake pans, so i baked the layers in two batches, but if you just have two, you can bake in three batches.)

in a large bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. gradually beat in 6 tablespoons of sugar and continue beating until you have stiff peaks.

in another large bowl, beat together the remaining cup of sugar, the almond paste, and butter. add the egg yolks, one at a time. beat in the lemon juice and almond extract, and then gradually sprinkle in the salt. add the flour and beat until combined.

fold the egg whites into the almond paste mixture and then divide the mixture evenly into three bowls. mix the red food coloring into one, the green food coloring into another, and then leave the last one as it is.

divide each of these mixtures in half and pour into separate cake pans. (again, if you don't have all six cake pans, just fill however many you've got, and then cover the batter that you're not using until it's ready to bake.) use a spatula to spread the batter as evenly as you can in the pan and then bake for 10-12 minutes, until the tops are just set, or no longer shiny and wet. let cool slightly in the pans, run a knife around the edges, and then carefully flip onto a greased cooling rack or greased sheet of parchment. bake remaining layers.

when the layers are cool, stack them up on a cake board or plate, spreading 2 tablespoons of jam between each. don't put jam on the top. wrap the sucker tightly in plastic wrap and then refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight. 

to make the chocolate ganache, place the chocolate chips in a large bowl. heat the heavy cream until it is just starting to boil, and then pour it over the chocolate. let sit for 30 seconds, and then stir it all together to get a smooth ganache. you can either pour the ganache over the cake or refrigerate the ganache for an hour, whip it up until it's pale and fluffy, and then frost the cake with an offset spatula (this is what's pictured). decorate your cake how you'd like, dust it with cocoa powder, add dinosaurs, and enjoy!


happy birthday, stoopie!!

-yeh!!!